I need new rapier armor.  I made a doublet and a pair of Venetians last year but I need at least two more doublets, a couple more pairs of trunkhose, and a jerkin or two.  So for inspiration I’ve started going through my copy of De Gheyn’s The Exercise of Armes.  The treatise is about training foot soldiers on the handling of such weapons as muskets, pikes, and calivers and as an added side benefit it is beautifully illustrated with over an hundred images of early c1607 dress.

 

Even if you aren’t interested in soldiering during the time period it makes a great resource for garb.  The variety of decoration, styles, and garments included in the images of the soldiers is a wealth of ideas.  You can see a few examples here in this post.  Once I’ve settled on my inspiration plates I will post them here with fabric samples for you guys.

Well we didn’t make it out to Fort Raleigh after all but my tutorial on Elizabethan Monochromatic Embroidery is now available in the tutorial section of my website.

My Recreating Elizabethan Bodies tutorial is now available in the tutorial section of my website.  I got it uploaded over the weekend.

Grettir has also made the class notes for is I.33-Liechtenauer Symposium available online.  You can download them here.

This past weekend was Atlantian Crown.  I had a fabulous time but, as usual, I brought my camera and didn’t take it out all day.  I really need to stop that!

Finally, I spent most of Sunday working on it and I’m now nearly finished with my current Foundations Revealed article.  Now I’m hoping that if I really dedicate the rest of the week to it and don’t allow myself to get distracted I can finish it early and possibly be free to day trip Tourney of Friends this weekend.  We’ll see how it goes.

Last night I finished cartridge pleating my venetians onto the waist band.  The original ones were gathered but I decided to try cartridge pleating in the hopes that it would help replicate the awesome puffiness seen in the De Ghyen venetians.

Once the waist band was attached I tried them on to double check the fit and the leg length to see if I needed to shorten them at all.  Everything looks good so far and I think once I hem them up a 1/2 inch they will be perfect.

I had briefly considered taking a picture of them while I had them on last night but since they were unflatteringly only safety pinned on I couldn’t bring myself to do it.  The buttons and hemming should go very quickly though so I should have some new pictures soon.

So it looks like I really might have new pants for Coronation next weekend.  Next up is a new doublet although I’m not sure if I will be able to finish that in time.  I’d really like to but we’ll just have to see.

Since I posted a tutorial on incorporating pockets into venetians and trunkhose yesterday I thought I would post a bit today about the pants the tutorial is based on.

I had posted recently that the first project of my great wardrobe overhaul was going to be new rapier armor.  Since I wanted to base it off of depictions of suits worn by soldiers in De Ghyen’s The Exercise of Armes I spent several hours pouring over my copy of the treatise.  While there were several examples of men wearing trunkhose, most appeared to be wearing venetians so I decided to start with a pair of those first.  Most of the venetians depicted appeared to have legs that were gathered or pleated into a leg band but a few appeared to be made with a fitted knee similar to the ones depicted in Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion.  Since I’ve always like those pants but never made a pair for myself I thought this would be a great opportunity to finally have my own pair.

I decided to make my venetians out of a burgundy wool flannel which I purchased from B. Black and Sons several years ago.  The are lined with linen and the pocket bags are also made of linen.  Since many of the venetians depicted in The Exercise of Armes and the ones I was basing mine on from Patterns of Fashion also had contrasting trim on the sides I decided to trim mine with pink linen bias tape that I made myself of a remnant I had left over from a previous project.  Pictures of the pants currently in progress can be found in my gallery.

Pocket

A pocket in my new venetians.

One of the things that has always attracted me to late 16th Century menswear is their pockets.  There are several examples of trunkhose and a pair of venetians depicted in Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion that include pockets.  Until recently though I’d always been a little unsure of adding them to my own trunkhose.  Even though I thought they were awesome I had always been afraid that if I tried to add them into my own pants that I’d mess them up and end up with big ugly holes instead of ultra cool pockets.

When I decided recently to redo my wardrobe starting with new rapier armor I decided I need to defeat my fear of making pockets.  My new rapier armor would contain the pockets I had always envied in the extant examples.

I started with a pair of venetians patterned after those in Patterns of Fashion.  I still need to attach the waist band and hem the legs but I have successfully completed the pockets so I thought I would include a tutorial on the process.

Adding a Pocket to Your Trunkhose or Ventians

This tutorial is based the Venetians depicted on p. 86 and p. 87 of Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion.  That pattern was drafted up from the original and a muslin made to ensure a proper fit.

Marking the pocket slit.

1. Mark the pocket slit on your hosen based on your pattern. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cut open the pocket slit.

2. Cut open the pocket slit. If you have carefully pinned both sides of you pants together to ensure that nothing shifts you may cut both slits at the same time.  However, if you are concerned then just cut one at a time.

 

 

 

The linen for the pocket bag.

3. Cut the linen for the pocket bag.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Measuring the pocket slit.

4. Measure the pocket slit.

 

 

 

 

 

Transfering the measurements.

5. Transfer the measurements of the pocket slit to the pocket bag.

 

 

 

 

 

The pocket slit sewn up.

6. Sew up the pocket bag taking care to leave the opening that will be sewn into the pocket slit.

 

 

 

 

 

The pocket basted and pinned into the pocket slit.

7. Baste the top of the bag to the edge of the pants and carefully pin the edges of the pocket slit and the bag opening together.

 

 

 

 

 

The pocket sewn closed.

8. Stitch the edges of the pocket slit and bag together using a whip or blind stitch.  To reinforce the tops and bottoms of the pocket slit use a button hole stitch there.

 

 

 

A finished pocket.

9. Repeat for the other leg and enjoy your new pockets!

 

 

 

 

I am very happy and excited to announce that my first ebook, Cloth Hosen and Stockings of the Late 16th and Early 17th Centuries, is now available for purchase through my website!

In honor of this being my first ebook and the Holidays I’ve decided to offer it at the reduced price of $4.95 USD through Christmas.  On Dec 26th the price will go up to $9.95 USD so if you want to pick one up get it before Christmas!

Enjoy!

Just a short post this morning but I wanted to let you all know that my 16th and Early 17th Century Cloth stocking tutorial (the one that was published at Foundations Revealed this past May) is going to be available through my website very soon.  I want to do a little reformatting first but I’m hoping to have it available before the end of the year.

I’ve been sick and haven’t been able to write since War of the Wings but I wanted to post that my latest article, Recreating Elizabethan Bodies, has been published and is available at Foundations Revealed.  Enjoy!

This weekend was spent working on my new article for Foundations as well as pitching in to help with House Red Wolf’s (the NCSU SCA student group) recruitment demo on Sunday.

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