Sunday morning I sat down to work on kirtle bodice.  Many thanks to all of you for weighing on whether to bone them or make a separate pair of bodies.  In the end though I did decide to bone the kirtle bodice.  Not only will this give me extra time to work on the project but it will also mean that I have a second boned kirtle that I could wear with a partlet and smock in the summer time.

First Things First

The first thing I did was determine the which size I needed based on the directions and the measurements on the back of pattern.  With high quality patterns like the Reconstructing History patterns I don’t like to cut the patterns out.  With modern tissue patterns I don’t care but I like to keep my nice patterns whole and in good condition should I need to remake it in a new size later.   So I trace out the correct size pattern on new paper and make all my corrections and changes to that.  When I’m done that traced pattern will be placed into the pattern sleave so that if I don’t change sizes I have it for next time. 🙂  My grandmother would be so proud.  Even her tissue patterns were in pristine condition. 🙂

Making up the Interlining

I’m going to be honest.  I did all my fitting and altering with the interlining rather than making a mockup.  Now this is fine if you are ok with the fact that this may very well mean that you will have to redo everything.  In fact I had to complettely redo my back pieces because the straps were too short.  I needed another 4.5 inches and piecing on the bias is made of fail.  But redoing that back pieces to lengthen the straps was all I needed to fix.  Everything else fit wonderfully.  I decided to use the Dorthea bodies boning pattern to give a more rounded bust rather than fully boning the front as I usually do and everything is boned with reed boning that I also happened to pick up from Reconstructing History last year. 🙂  There are pictures of my completted (and in progress) interlining up in my gallery.

Sadly there are no pictures yet of me trying the interling on but I did have my wonderful husband hold it closed so I could make sure it did fit correctly and place the straps where I wanted them.  For an interlining it looked great but I am am kinda happy it will all be covered up by the lining and the fashion fabric. 🙂  All in all it took me 4 hours to finish the interling.  The next step is finishing the bodice.  For those of you who are interested I will be using the fabric below for the kirtle.  I plan to use the navy blue linen for the fashion fabric and it will be fully lined in the red linen.

Red and blue linen for the kirtle.

Red and blue linen for the kirtle.

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